Shirey Bay, a Black River Oxbow Lake

July 3, 2009

I got up before the sun this morning to head out for a Cypress-filled oxbow lake somewhere. I’ve been wanting to kayak amongst some Cypress trees for some time now.

I had seen and heard about several oxbow lakes south of Portia, AR. Portia Bay is clearly visible from Highway 63, but I had also noticed an Arkansas Game and Fish Commission Public Access sign for Shirey Bay along the highway. A quick search on the internet turned up some info about the Shirey Bay Rainey Brake Wildlife Mangement Area which “was appropriately named for the two large bodies of water located on the area. The East Side of the area known as Shirey Bay got its name from an old oxbow off Black River. The Rainey Brake located on the West Side is so called due to a large pond or brake, as it is sometimes called. ” I also learned that about 15 miles south of Portia I could access either the Black River itself via the Dixie Lee access or I could also access the Shirley Bay oxbow lake. Target located!

So, at 5am this morning I headed for Portia…not really sure where I was going. As I entered Portia, I saw the familiar AGFC sign pointing south and as luck might have it, three trucks pulling boats. I followed the pack.

About 30 minutes, several turns and a pretty rough gravel road later we arrived at the Shirey Bay Public Access with boat ramp and dirt parking lot (see map #1). If not for following the other guys, I might have not made it on the first attempt. It’s nothing more than a boat ramp in the corner of a rice field, with trees surrounding the parking area and the usual brown AGFC sign, which was positioned in a spot which wasn’t as visible as they normally are.

Along with me, there were about 6 other people there. I chatted with a couple of older men who told me how to access two other oxbow lakes in the area and let me know I “probably don’t want to fool with the Black River” and that I “should be on the Spring [River] in a kayak, not in some oxbows that don’t go anywhere”. I explained that I was more of a touring-style kayaker and enjoyed the lakes and ponds just as much as the rivers.

I usually look for a spot off to the side of the boat ramps, because I have found that putting in on the actual boat ramp is a bit too rigid and clumsy for a guy of my size. I like to have a nice bed of gravel or grass to get settled into my boat and then kick off from. This boat ramp had a perfect spot just to the right where some pea gravel led down into the lake. I’m off!

Right away, the relaxation kicked in. There’s nothing better than a quiet, flat lake as the sun rises above the treetops, especially Cypress trees. Their gnarly limbs and feathery leaves break the rays of the sun into bits and pieces of golden light which allow you to look right into the sunrise without squinting much. I quickly found a large Cypress and started snapping photos of the sun rising.

After the sun had crested above the treetops, I headed south for a bit to look around and then turned back toward the northern end of the lake. From the boat ramp, I had seen that there were several large gatherings of Cypress trees toward the northern tip of the water. This is what I was looking for.

The color of the water is worth noting as well. It’s a bit like tea, but also a bit like coffee. It’s hard to describe. I’m not sure if it is the type of lake, the natural acids, tannins and such that exist in the Cypress groves or what, but it creates a rich colored water that makes it almost impossible to see anything more than a few inches under the water.

If you’ve not ever been around a grove of submersed Cypress trees in the early morning, you’re in for a treat. It’s like going back in time for a bit, especially if you find a group of really large trees.

As I paddled along, I noticed that the fish kept coming closer and closer to my boat. I don’t know if they were intrigued by the bright orange color or if they were just curious. I constantly saw dorsal fins rise and fall back into the water off the bow of the boat. And, from time and time, a fish would appear to the left or right of me right beyond my paddle. I could see the bright flash of what looked like a gar and then it was gone.

Including the friendly fish, I saw a family of raccoons passing through the woods along the bank, several woodpeckers up in the tops of the trees, a couple of sparrows, a few frogs and turtles and a squirrel. It was a wonderful trip and I plan to visit the other oxbow lakes in the area very soon. First on the list is Portia Bay. I’m told that there is no public access, so you have to pay a gentleman $2.00 to access the bay. I’ll gladly pay it for a few moments amongst my Cypress friends.